A practical garage door comparison for space, curb appeal, and day-to-day function
If your garage is the most-used “front door” on the property, the layout you choose matters. A single door setup (often two separate doors) and a double door setup (one wider door) can both work beautifully—but they behave differently with Colorado weather, driveway geometry, and how you actually park, store, and move in and out. Below is a clear, field-tested way to decide what fits your property and your routine.
First, define what “single” and “double” really mean
In everyday terms:
Single garage door usually means a door sized for one vehicle (commonly around 8–10 feet wide). Many two-car garages use two single doors side-by-side.
Double garage door typically means one wider opening sized for two vehicles (commonly around 16–18 feet wide).
| Door type | Common widths (U.S.) | Common heights | Typical use case |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single (one-car) | 8’–10′ (often 9′) | 7’–8′ | One bay, workshop bay, third-car bay, or two singles for a two-car garage |
| Double (two-car) | 16’–18′ (often 16′) | 7’–8′ | Two cars behind one opening; easier “one-button” access |
Note: “Common” doesn’t mean “best.” In Denver Metro, taller vehicles, roof racks, and storage lifts can quickly change what height you’ll be happiest with.
Property fit: the 5 factors that decide single vs double
1) Driveway width & turning approach
If you approach the garage at an angle (common with shorter driveways, tight lots, or side streets), a double door can be easier to hit cleanly. If you have plenty of straight shot and room to line up, two singles are just as convenient—and can reduce “door-open time” when you only need one bay.
2) How you use the garage (parking vs storage vs shop)
If one side is always a workshop, gym, or storage wall, two single doors let you open only what you need. If you regularly shuffle two vehicles, trailers, or bulky gear in and out, a double door can feel more flexible—especially when carrying large items.
3) Structural framing & header space
A double door needs a wider header and a longer span. Two singles split that span with a center post. For some garages, that center post is a non-issue; for others, it’s exactly what gets in the way (especially when backing in with wider vehicles or when you want unobstructed interior space).
4) Wind, insulation goals, and “door feel”
Denver’s weather swings and gusty days make door rigidity and proper reinforcement matter. A wider door can catch more wind and may benefit from the right construction, track setup, and reinforcement choices. Two singles can feel more “nimble” during operation because each door is smaller—yet either option can be made solid with the right spec and install details.
5) Curb appeal & window symmetry
Two singles often look balanced on traditional façades and can match window groupings nicely. A single double door can look clean and modern—especially with contemporary panel designs and glass rows. Your home’s proportions often decide this faster than any spec sheet.
Pros & trade-offs at a glance
| Category | Two single doors | One double door |
|---|---|---|
| Daily convenience | Open only one side when you don’t need both bays | One wide opening; easy for carrying large items |
| Parking alignment | Each bay is defined; center post can limit sweeping turns | More forgiveness for angled approach and wider vehicles |
| Mechanical complexity | Two systems (two sets of springs/tracks, often two openers) | One system, but larger components and a wider span |
| Interior obstruction | Center post stays (unless structure is redesigned) | Open interior span; easier to rearrange storage |
| Look & symmetry | Classic, balanced curb appeal | Clean, modern façade (design dependent) |
| Downtime risk | If one door is down, the other may still operate | If the door is down, the whole opening is affected |
If your top priority is “always have at least one working bay,” two singles are hard to beat. If your top priority is “make access easy no matter what I’m driving,” a double door often wins.
A step-by-step way to choose (without guessing)
Step 1: Measure your “real” parking needs
Record the width of your widest vehicle (mirrors out), then add comfort room for door swings and walking around the vehicle. If you park two vehicles daily, pay attention to whether you regularly “thread the needle” near the center line—this is where a wider opening can reduce stress.
Step 2: Check headroom, backroom, and side room
Door choice isn’t only about width. Your ceiling height, ductwork, beams, storage racks, and garage door opener placement affect what tracks and hardware can be used. A quick site check prevents surprises—especially if you’re considering high-lift tracks, storage lifts, or a jackshaft operator.
Step 3: Decide how you want the garage to “behave” in winter
In Denver’s freeze/thaw cycles, you’ll feel the difference between a garage that drafts and one that stays stable. Regardless of single or double, confirm the door construction (insulated vs non-insulated), perimeter weather seal quality, and a tight bottom seal fit to your slab.
Step 4: Don’t compromise on safety devices and testing
Modern operators are designed to work with entrapment protection devices like photoelectric sensors (“photo eyes”). After any install or major repair, confirm the door reverses correctly and sensors are aligned, mounted properly, and unobstructed. This is one of the simplest ways to reduce risk for kids, pets, and property.
Step 5: Match design to your façade (not just the brochure)
Take one photo straight-on from the curb. Then mock up two styles: two singles with windows vs one double with windows. The “right” choice is often obvious once you see the proportions on your actual home or building.
Did you know?
Many “two-car” garages were designed around smaller vehicles. If you drive a full-size truck or SUV, a standard opening can feel tight even when the garage is technically “two-car.”
A door that’s out of balance strains the opener. Smooth, properly balanced movement is a reliability issue—not just a “nice to have.”
Wind and weather seals work together. The panel construction matters, but the perimeter seal and bottom seal are often what you feel day-to-day in drafts and dust.
Denver-area considerations (that change the decision)
Denver Metro properties often deal with a mix of tight urban driveways, newer suburban builds, and outlying lots where wind exposure can be more noticeable. Here are a few local patterns we see:
Short driveways + street parking: A wider opening can be easier when you’re pulling in quickly or at an angle.
Wind-exposed lots: Door build quality, reinforcement, and a precise install matter as much as the size decision.
Busy households and job sites: If you want to keep one bay secured while accessing the other, two singles can be a practical workflow upgrade.
Griswold Overhead Door & Construction is based in Keenesburg and serves the Denver Metro area with residential and commercial installation, repair, preventive maintenance, and emergency support—so you can get a recommendation based on your actual opening, framing, and how you use the space (not just a generic “standard size”).
Want a clear recommendation for your garage opening?
If you’re deciding between two single doors vs one double door—or planning a new installation—an on-site check can confirm measurements, headroom constraints, operator options, and safety device placement so the finished door works smoothly and fits the property.
FAQ: Single vs double garage doors
Is a double door always easier to park with?
Not always—but it often feels easier if your approach is angled, your driveway is tight, or you drive a wider vehicle. If you prefer clearly defined bays (and you like opening only one side most days), two singles can be equally convenient.
If one side breaks, do I lose access?
With two single doors, a problem with one door usually doesn’t stop the other from operating—so you may keep one working bay. With a single double door, a major issue can affect the whole opening until it’s repaired.
Can I convert two singles into one double?
Sometimes, but it depends on the structure. Removing the center post typically requires proper framing changes (header support, load paths, and finish work). A site visit is the fastest way to confirm what’s possible.
Do I need a new opener if I change door size?
Often, yes—especially if the door’s weight, height, or hardware changes. The operator must match the door’s requirements, and safety sensors must be installed and tested correctly.
What’s the quickest way to know which option fits my property?
Measure your opening, check ceiling/track space, and think through daily use (one bay vs both). If you’re still on the fence, a professional assessment can confirm framing constraints and recommend a configuration that operates reliably in Denver conditions.
Glossary (helpful terms)
Header
The structural framing above the garage opening that supports loads over the door opening.
The structural framing above the garage opening that supports loads over the door opening.
Headroom / Backroom / Side room
The clearances needed above, behind, and beside the opening for tracks, springs, and operator components.
The clearances needed above, behind, and beside the opening for tracks, springs, and operator components.
Photo eyes (safety sensors)
A pair of sensors near the bottom of the opening that help detect obstructions and support safe closing operation.
A pair of sensors near the bottom of the opening that help detect obstructions and support safe closing operation.
Door balance
How evenly the door’s spring system counterbalances door weight—critical for smooth, safe operation and opener longevity.
How evenly the door’s spring system counterbalances door weight—critical for smooth, safe operation and opener longevity.
Weather seal
The perimeter and bottom seals that reduce drafts, dust, and moisture intrusion around the door.
The perimeter and bottom seals that reduce drafts, dust, and moisture intrusion around the door.
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